If not, I'll just go with a 4000FLX
And just to make sure...do I need any special cable or something to change the programming to spaceball instead of spaceorb?
EDIT: I'll be using this for Star Citizen. Am I the only one crazy excited about that game? lol
[quote="A Future Pilot"]EDIT: I'll be using this for Star Citizen. Am I the only one crazy excited about that game? lol [/quote]
Whoa! I started out on WingCommander... why havent I heard of this? That looks sweet!
PS: Since you went with the 4000, I snagged that 5000FLX-A.
Now I can find exactly what the difference is between them all.
PING: VPutz, Ive put my initial findings with the Orbotron and various spacemice over in the hardware section.
(didnt want to clog up this thread)
Kenyee: It was a Molex one (
Tehrasha: thanks! Will give me plenty to think about.
Star Citizen, eh? Guess I'd better finish that Thrustmaster WCS/FCS/Pedals conversion (prototypes came in a week or so ago...
[quote="vputz"]Molex one ( ). It will still be a bit hellish to solder, BUT the little legs fit into holes in the PCB, so alignment is no longer a problem http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1568023 [/quote]
Wow...still looks hellish to solder
Didn't realize you had alignment problems w/ the old connector. That'd make the soldering even more hellish
I'm also wondering if my pad cutouts on my stencils are a little too big and I'm just putting down too much paste. Most of the bridges on the QFP44, when they happen, aren't at the level of the PCB--they're up a little higher. Which makes it sound like the problem isn't so much solder resist on the PCB as much as it is just too much solder overall. I'll try and play with the process a bit (I ran an SMD stencil/reflow workshop at the local hackspace, and one guy turned up with a metal stencil--his results with that looked very clean, much cleaner than I was getting with the PET stencils. But a metal stencil is expensive to have made... I've seen tutorials on making them from soft drink cans, so maybe I should try that at some point.
I'm also wondering if my pad cutouts on my stencils are a little too big and I'm just putting down too much paste. Most of the bridges on the QFP44, when they happen, aren't at the level of the PCB--they're up a little higher.
I agree...sounds like too much paste which might mean your stencil is too thick. The $25 stencils from smart-prototyping don't sound bad at all, but I haven't tried them:
[quote="Tehrasha"] [quote="A Future Pilot"]Is this a "real" 5000, or a rebranded 4000? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Compaq-Spaceball-5000-FLX-A-112137-002-331526-001-1583-/121124510880?pt=Mice&hash=item1c33955ca0 [/quote]
Be better if I could see the bottom label, but my bets are on this being a rebranded 4000.
Turns out, my guess was correct, it -is- a rebranded 4000.
Even though it plainly states SPACEBALL5000 on the bottom of the mouse in big letters, the firmware says otherwise when initialized...
"1 Spaceball 4000 FLX.
"2 B:13 L PnP:1 Az:1 Sns:S 2710 14.
"3 V2.45 created on May 06 2003.
"4 Copyright(C) 2003 Spacetec IMC Corporation.HVFirmware version 2.45 created on 06-May-2003..
All of the data generated from button presses matched the 4000 as well.
So, if any of you guys have or end up with a 5000FLX-A, you will need to run it as a SpaceBall4000 on the Orbotron.
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